Types of wastes and by-products of fashion
The fashion industry generates a wide range of wastes from both the production and consumption phases. These wastes can be distinguished into several categories:
Production Waste
Wastes generated during the clothing manufacturing stage are many and include:
- Fabric scraps: During garment production, a significant proportion of fabrics are discarded. In some cases, such as in the production of tailoring or high-fashion clothing, the waste can be considerable. It is estimated that on average about 15-20% of textile material is discarded during production.
- Chemical waste: The fashion industry uses a number of chemical processes (e.g., for dyeing, fiber treatment, and fabric finishing), which generate hazardous wastes such as chemical solutions, paints, solvents, and other toxic substances. These wastes can contaminate the environment if not treated properly.
- Fiber waste: Synthetic fiber (such as polyester, nylon, acrylic) and natural fiber (such as cotton, wool) are often discarded in huge quantities during the manufacturing process. Synthetic fibers are particularly problematic because they are not biodegradable and are difficult to recycle.
Waste resulting from the use of the product
Once the clothes reach consumers, waste abounds here as well:
- Discarded clothing waste: Consumers often discard clothing they no longer use, creating a growing mass of used clothing that ends up in landfills or incinerators. An estimated 92 million tons of clothing are discarded worldwide each year, with only a small fraction of it recycled or reused.
- Damaged clothing: Often clothes that are ruined (e.g. by wear and tear, rips, stains) are abandoned, with no recovery operation carried out.
Specific by-products and wastes
Leather and textile materials derived from animals: The fashion industry uses leather, silk and other materials derived from animals. These by-products, if not treated properly, can become toxic waste, particularly in the case of leather treated with chromium (a heavy metal), which can contaminate water resources if not disposed of properly.
- Microplastics from synthetic fabrics: Synthetic fabrics, when washed, release small plastic fibers into the water, which then end up in the oceans. Although they are not solid waste in the traditional sense, these microplastics are a serious ecological problem arising directly from fast fashion.
Disposals’ criticalities
Disposal of fashion industry waste and by-products is critical for several reasons, ranging from poor recycling infrastructure to technical difficulties in processing certain materials.
Difficulties in recycling materials
Many of the materials used in the fashion industry, especially synthetics such as polyester, are not easily recyclable. Some blended fabrics (e.g., polyester and cotton) are particularly difficult to separate and recycle. Chemical recycling, which could be a solution, is still underdeveloped and expensive.
Contamination and hazardous wastes
Chemical wastes from textile processing can include toxic dyes, pesticides (as in the case of cotton) and heavy metals (such as chromium in leather processing). If not treated properly, these wastes can contaminate soil and water, with devastating effects on local ecosystems. The management of these wastes is therefore extremely complex and requires advanced disposal techniques.
The landfill as a ‘final destination’
A large proportion of discarded or unused clothing ends up in landfills. According to some estimates, only 20 percent of discarded clothing is actually recycled, while the rest ends up incinerated or in landfills. This contributes to clogged landfills, emitting greenhouse gases and releasing harmful chemicals into the soil and groundwater.
Greenwashing
Some companies take superficial sustainability measures to attract environmentally conscious consumers without a real commitment to waste and emissions reduction, creating confusion and disincentivizing real change in the industry.
Planned obsolescence and fast fashion
The ‘fast fashion’ model, which promotes the massive production of low-cost, limited-life garments, is one of the main factors driving the market toward a continuous accumulation of waste. Clothes produced under this model are often of low quality, designed to last only a short time and quickly become obsolete, thus contributing to an increasing mass of textile waste.
Challenges and opportunities in textile waste management
The fashion industry faces significant challenges in managing waste and by-products, but there are several solutions that could help reduce environmental impact and improve disposal:
Legislation and regulation
At the European level, the Waste Directive 2008/98/EC establishes the waste hierarchy (prevention, recycling, recovery, disposal) and obliges member States to implement recycling and reuse policies. However, the legislation does not always specifically address textile wastes. Initiatives are underway to update European legislation, with proposals such as the European Commission’s Circular Economy Action Plan1, which includes measures to improve textile recycling and reduce waste.
In Italy, Legislative Decree 116/2020 mandates the separation of textile waste and incentives for recycling, but an adequate network of textile-specific recycling facilities is lacking, and the collection system is still underdeveloped in many regions.
Circular fashion and re-use
One of the most promising solutions is the circular fashion model, which seeks to extend the life cycle of garments by encouraging reuse, recycling and repair. Some major fashion companies are already adopting practices of collecting used clothing for recycling. Some brands are also promoting upcycling, which is the transformation of old garments into valuable new products.
Innovative technologies for textile recycling
Chemical and mechanical recycling are making progress. Several companies are developing technologies that can turn used fabrics into new yarns, thus reducing the need to use new resources.
Tax incentives and extended producer responsibility policies
Some countries are introducing extended producer responsibility (EPR) policies, which oblige manufacturers to collect and recycle products once they reach the end of their life cycle. These schemes, if well implemented, can incentivize brands to design garments that are more easily recyclable and to invest in waste management infrastructure.
Conclusions and future scenarios
The management of waste from the fashion industry is a complex issue that requires coordinated efforts among legislators, industry and consumers. Although regulations exist that can steer the industry toward greater sustainability, a radical change in the design, production and consumption of fashion products is needed. Solutions must be integrated into a broader vision of a circular economy that encourages recycling, waste reduction and corporate social responsibility.
Future developments could include the introduction of more stringent requirements for textile waste management, incentives for the adoption of sustainable technologies, and increased international collaboration to ensure uniform and more effective regulation.
In a constantly evolving regulatory environment, with numerous critical interpretative issues and sometimes significant penalties, the consultation with attorneys specializing in the field is increasingly crucial for the proper management of special fashion waste.
For further information, please contact:
Giusy Cardinale, Withersworldwide
giusy.cardinale@withersworldwide.com
Foot Notes
[1] https://environment.ec.europa.eu/strategy/circular-economy-action-plan_en?prefLang=it&etrans=it
